Welcome to the Cats and Kittens page! I have bred and shown Siamese cats for some 25 years and have raised innumerable tiny orphan kittens (from 'unknown' parents, brought to me by concerned people) during that time. I have stewarded at many cat shows and have enjoyed stewarding for Senior Judges from overseas and interstate. I have also been involved in the running and organizing of shows as Steward and Chief Steward. All of this has contributed to my experience and knowledge of the breeding, showing, care, grooming and behaviour of our feline friends.
The following pages are written as a response to numerous requests which I have received for information from all around the world. They are not the final stage! I have much more information concerning handling cats and kittens, behaviours, temperaments - and this is in the process of being written.
I would really appreciate any feedback from you, my wonderful readers, as to any matter concerning cats and kittens which you would like to see here. Just email me by clicking on the box at the end of these pages.
Let's have a quick look at the origin of the cat.
The cat's predecessors evolved from a long line of descendants. Science generally agrees that the 'original' ancestor of the cat (and dog) was a small, very vicious weasel-like creature named Miacis. It took roughly 10 million years (or so) for it to evolve into two different distinct groups, the Dinictus and the Hoplophoneus.
The latter was recognizable by its massive upper and lower canines; perhaps the most well known today of these is the sabre toothed tiger which became extinct approximately 1.5 million years ago in the Pleistocene Age. The descendants of Dinictus, however, developed different assets which were to stand them in good stead. One of these was the ability to retract their claws. Dinictus' descendants, in the Miocene Age, divided into approximately 90 sub species which are directly related to today's cats, and of which about 35 species still recognizably exist.
Some 4 major Ice Ages later, and after some particularly violent volcanic activity, Man evolved in his recognizable form today; and with him, some 40 species of cats. There is some archeological evidence indicating the association, if somewhat fragile, of early man and the cat - perhaps around the campfire or when discarded food was picked up by the cat.
We have gathered a lot more information about the 'domestic' cat through archeology and the examinations of cat mummies which were buried, either with other burials or on their own. In Ancient Egypt the cat was revered as a god. One of the better known 'gods' was the Cat God Bastet - sometimes called Bast or Pasht, and this god was venerated by the mightiest to the lowest person in the land. By the time Christianity had spread over the country, the cult of Bastet was on its way out.
In 1758 the scientist Linnaeus identified the domestic cat, as we know it today, as belonging to the genus Felis Catus and had its origin in the Eocene Age. (This period also produced the first primate ancestors of Man.) This genus was named Felis Domestica by Erlexen in 1771; however, due to the fact that the first-naming of a genus is the official scientific name, the name Felis Catus remains its true identification. Controversy still surrounds this decision.
So, how about a little basic cat background before we go forward? We all know what cats look like; and that kittens are the babies of cats. An entire female cat is called a 'Queen', and an entire male cat is called a 'Tom' (I could never find out the real reason for Tom's naming - but I have had many a chuckle over some of the suggestions!).
Kittens are considered to be so until they reach the grand old age of 9 months - then they are considered adults. It is a good idea - and strongly recommended - that if you do not intend to breed your cat, you should have it spayed (female) and neutered (male), prior to it reaching sexual maturity.
Felines reach sexual maturity from 3 months onwards. I know - they're kittens until they reach 9 months - but females in particular can become quite earnest in their procreation endeavours from the 3 months mark! Considering that a general litter consists of 5 kittens (sometimes 7, and a rare litter of one of my cats was 11), you can understand that allowing cats to breed without any restrictions can cause quite a few problems!
Some of these problems are the noises which the animals make when 'calling', which a queen does incessantly when in season, and the yowling of a male replying or fighting to ward off other contenders for the queen's favours; the often unwanted litters which end up in refuges; the cost to the health of the animals and lastly - the cost to your good relations with your neighbours.
So what do you do? Most households have one or two cats. These live generally in harmony, provided they have adequate housing, toys, something to scratch on - such as a carpeted pole - ; food, flea and worm control, bedding, and provisions for toileting. Cats should also have a bell or two fixed to a collar around their necks, and should be restricted to the house or another secure area to protect the wildlife.
Ah! I can see some of you are concerned about what I've just written - you would like your cat to wander free and just be a cat. That's fine - but just think a moment. Our cats have been domesticated for centuries. They've been fed, loved, coddled, groomed, and generally live the life of a pampered tycoon. But remember, they also are streamlined, thinking, stalking, killing machines. A house cat has no need to kill to eat - you supply all his needs! He doesn't need a large area to exercise in - your home is more than adequate for this; so why are you worried about keeping him inside? And just consider this question - would you allow your dog to kill - same as the cat - for the fun of it, or because the victim just happened to be there?
There are quite good styles of harnesses and leads on the market, and most cats will adapt very well to being led. If you train your cat at an early age to accept a lead and harness, then the cat can be 'walked' in much the same manner as a dog, and will quite enjoy the experience. Also - you have control over the cat so it won't go chasing the wildlife. I have a personal preference for a harness which is secure around the cat's shoulders and chest in preference to a collar. I've seen many a cat slip out of its collar - and don't think it can't be done! The cat is a regular Houdini when it comes to slipping out of restraints - and the proper cat harness is one of the best for keeping the cat under good control when out walking it.
Now we get to talk about the nature of the cat! This is truly the only animal on earth which can cohabit with humans, accept all and sundry administrations, and yet still manage to be supremely aloof. The cat will allow you to offer him a home, food, water, and love; will allow you to groom him, pick him up, pet him; and all of this is subject to his own whims at the time. He gives the appearance of putting up with his host with the graciousness that only a cat can impart, yet can artfully manipulate his doting human slave/s to his will. He will talk to you, play with you, sleep with you - and then cut you off at a moment's notice with very little regard for your broken heart. And - woe betide the human companion who does not immediately respond to the Royal Demand for what ever His Highness requires at the time!
A cat is truly self sufficient, able to cope with the complexities of life with little difficulty, whereas a dog is very dependant upon its human 'pack' (although dogs have been known to go feral, and survive quite well. Yet they don't have the same tenacious nature of the cat.). The cat is able to absorb itself into a locality, home, wherever it will obtain the maximum food and comfort for the least expenditure of energy. A cat is slow to trust, and quick to understand. Once you have wronged a cat, you will never have that cat's respect. It might tolerate you, but the respect is gone.
Having said all of this, however - a cat will easily adapt to a welcoming household and make it his. He is territorial and is not tolerant of 'strange' cats trying to adopt his home, but with tolerance and kindness may be induced to accept the newcomer. Many a cat fight and expensive visit to the veterinary surgeon has been the result of such encounters. He will generally tolerate another cat if the two have been brought up together. There are ways to introduce a new cat or kitten to a household which already has a resident cat.
It is imperative that the 'owner' be very aware of the behaviour patterns of the particular breed that has been brought into the household, as - for instance - a breed such as the Siamese is far more demanding on his human slaves that is the placid and floppy Rag Doll cat. A cat's body language is worthy of comment also. The cat is the master of disdain, or the epitomy of pleasure - these two 'feelings' are marked in the first by a studied "back to you and wash the paws", and in the second, wrapping itself round your legs, purring loudly and talking, and kneading. Therefore, it is recommended that you go to your local library and read up all you can on your selected breed; check out your local cat clubs; visit with breeders and heed their advice. Take notes - copious notes. Build yourself a good reference library!
People 'get' cats or kittens for various reasons (or excuses). Some of the ones I've heard are: "Got a cat for the kids, it'll teach 'em responsibility"; "I've always wanted a cat"; "We've always had cats in this family"; "You need a cat to keep the mice down"; or - "I thought a cat wouldn't take much to keep".
Before you race out and get a cat, you should sit down with your family/friends and perhaps your veterinarian, and do a good deal of thinking and talking. Some of the things to be considered are: Are you getting the cat for the right reason? (The above reasons/excuses are all wrong! ) Do you want a pet, or an animal to breed with?(Costs will also be important here); Have you got proper accommodation for the cat? (Shelter, bed, bedding, food and water bowls); Can you give the cat the attention it should have? (Grooming, veterinary care, worming, injections when required by the vet, toys, your time with play and attention); Can you arrange proper care for it when you go on vacation? (Reputable cattery? Check with breeders and friends)
If you find that the cat would be too demanding to you, or that you 'haven't got the time to give it all that attention", then perhaps the cat is not for you. A ceramic statue of a cat might be better! However, if you still like the idea after considering the above - and you have checked out the costing of regular worming, feline vaccinations, food, and other minor necessities - then you are ready to consider looking for the cat or kitten of your dreams! Happy hunting!
If you have decided to get a non-pedigree cat, then there are various sources for you to consider, each with its own pros and cons. There are rescue organisations which take in cats of all ages and kittens; these are checked by veterinarians, and dependent upon which part of the world you're from, they are generally sold as speyed or neutered, with worming and feline vaccinations having been given. You will also be helping these organisations to continue their work. Then there are friends/family, whose favourite cat has had kittens; these kittens are generally not wormed or vaccinated, and more often than not are taken away from their mothers at too early an age. See in the Breeding section for more information on this. The other method of obtaining a cat is for a stray to decide to take up residence in your home. This cat should be taken to a veterinary surgeon for a full physical, worming, and vaccination. It will also be a much more wary cat, having been 'thrown out' of its former residence, or having been abandoned.
Should you decide to purchase a pedigreed cat, then there are other considerations besides/in addition to, the above. You may just want the cat for a pet; or you may be looking for a particular type of cat with which to breed your future champions. Either way, consider the breeds first; talk to breeders; are you interested in short or long hairs? Docile, placid breeds, or active, vocal types? What is your own temperament like? Consider what you want to achieve, then go to your local library/bookshop and read up on your preferred breed/s. When you have decided which breed you like, then approach local cat clubs who cater for this breed and talk to members. Visit with them if possible. Get as much information as you possibly can, because you will be outlaying a very large amount of money on your pedigreed pet/show cat.
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Choosing your cat or kitten is quite exciting, and lots of fun. It is sometimes difficult to make a choice - but one rule of thumb which I follow is: go and see the litter, check out the parents (especially if you're buying a pedigreed cat/kitten), then sit down on the floor with the kittens. Check out their eyes, (should be clear) nose, (should be damp and cool), their teeth (should be clean with no tartar, and the gums should be nicely pink), their tummies (should not be distended - could indicate some veterinary problems!), their physique (bones should not be immediately evident, the conformation should be breed-specific), alertness (are they aware of what's going on around them, or listless?), and their temperament. The last is also important, because if the cat/kitten has an attitude/behavioural problem, it may not fit into your household - especially if you have children.
Ask to see their worming record, and their signed vaccination certificates. Every cat/kitten should not be sold/given away without one! (Although this does not always happen, unfortunately.) In the case of the pedigreed cat, ask to see its certificate of pedigree. This should be a signed and registered document (with the Feline Control Council or equivalent in your country). If the cat or kittens do not have one, I would not be interested in purchasing any of those if I intended to breed. Their progeny will most probably not be able to be registered. Reputable breeders can be recommended by registered cat clubs/societies, or Feline Control Councils. It's better to check with them first. Ok, now you have made your decision, and you're ready to take your precious bundle home!
It's not a good idea to take your new pet home unrestrained. There are many good carry crates to take them home in. Some are reinforced plastic with air vents and a door to look through; there are also collapsible cardboard crates - but these will not deter the frightened occupant from ripping its way out, and are definitely not recommended. Choose a crate that will last your friend for many years, and is of a size which will allow him some comfort. Place some bedding in the crate - old towels or newspaper is fine - and place him inside; then secure the door firmly so that questing paws and nails won't budge the door keeper. Talk gently to him to help him feel at ease. In the car, make sure that he cannot get out of the crate, and that there is plenty of ventilation flowing through the vehicle.
When you get him home, take him to a special area which is going to become his safe spot. It could be a spare room (ideal), or a special pen - but it must be escape proof! In this area should be a cat bed - a good cardboard carton which has high walls is fine; place bedding in it (again, old towels or sheets with old newspapers are fine); and put this in the room/pen in an area where he can feel safe. You should also have fresh water, and some food such as dry fish/beef cat or kitten biscuits to nibble on. Most important too, is the kitty litter tray with a good absorbant litter so that he may go to the toilet inside. When you put his crate into the room/pen, shut the room's door, then open the door of the crate. Don't force him to come out - he will in his own good time. Spend a bit of time with him, talk softly to him, but don't force him to accept your pats or strokes if he isn't feeling like it. Remember, he has been taken away from his siblings/friends and is smelling a lot of new scents, seeing a lot of strange things, and hearing a lot of new sounds.
Make it your business to feed him regularly at about the same time. As he comes to accept you, then you can let him explore the other rooms. Always secure any exit from the premises so that he won't excape. He should have been hearing and smelling other members of the family, and he will come to accept them if they do not force the approach or petting. Remember, cats are independent four legged personages and will not be rushed! Hasten slowly, and he will come to trust you.
Ok, now you've got your cat home, have shown him his new home and family - the years of care start! Besides his need for daily feeds, his regular fresh water requirements, and his need for toileting facilities, he should have a regular yearly health check. This will be done by your veterinary surgeon when he gives the cat his annual vaccination. He will also check his ears, tummy, teeth and gums. He will advise you on dietary requirements such as special diets for obese or underweight cats or other needs, how to fight tartar and subsequently bad gums; and how to keep your cat in the pink of good health. He will also advise you on a worming regimen for your cat. Worming methods are chewable meaty pieces, tablets, fluids, or gel which is put on the fur for the cat to lick off. Listen to your veterinarian and take his advice - he is a good friend to your pet and will be an invaluable guide to you throughout your pet's life.
A cat will require only one good, complete and balanced meal a day. It will also need a constant supply of fresh water. A kitten, dependant upon its age, will require a different feeding regime - see the section entitled The results - and their care. Don't ever feed them cooked bones - the heat alters the constitution of the bones and they can splinter in quite a nasty manner. I personally know of two cats which had perforated intestines because of cooked bones! A fresh meaty chicken wing now and then, is a welcome addition to the cat's diet. It also helps reduce build up of tartar on the teeth, thus reducing or preventing gum disease. Don't give bones to very young kittens. If in doubt - always consult your veterinarian. An elderly cat will appreciate a special Senior Citizen type of cat diet..... your veterinarian will be able to advise you on just which one would be appropriate for your old friend.
There comes the time in the life of every pet, where, sadly - the need for us to say goodbye must come. When we've loved our friend of many years, nursed him through ills and bad times, enjoyed his quiet companionship and his loving concern in our times of need - there comes a time when we must give our old friend the final service.
Your veterinarian will have been with you to this last journey, and advised you of your friend's now hastening progress to his final call. You alone can make the decision to help your friend and ease him out of his pain to a better place. Your veterinarian will give you the time you need to love your friend, to talk to your old mate of your memories, and to say goodbye. He will ask you if you want to be with him in those final moments, and you can ease your pet's transition to peace by being there with him. It is up to you though - some find it extremely difficult to say goodbye personally to a treasured companion and to stay with him to the end. Either way - your pet will have had a long time of love and life with you, and you will remember him; they never diminish in your memory. As I write this - with not quite dry eyes! - I am remembering so many of my friends who I know are just waiting for me when it's my turn. Vale, friends, see you later!
Now let's talk about breeding cats. The only reason we should breed is if we have pure bred animals, and we are breeding to improve the strain. If so, we should also be intending to show our animals to indicate to other breeders the good 'points' our particular strain has to offer - and our better points may help their breeding program! Animals which are not intended to be bred should be spayed/neutered. Breeding good quality kittens requires a very good understanding of the particular breed standard of your cat, its pedigree, and the pedigree of the proposed stud. The cost of breeding the cat is rather high, and of raising the kittens, with feed, care and veterinary attention (vaccinations, worming, etc.), to saleable age is also high. You should also be a member of a properly constituted and registered Cat Club specialising in your particular breed, recognised by a Feline Control Council in your country. If you are not so affiliated, you most probably will not be able to register your litters, nor sell them with pedigree certificates; therefore, they will not be able to be shown.
If you decide not to breed with your pedigree cat, you should have the queen speyed or the male neutered. This will eliminate the torture of the queen's avid calling each season and the male's spraying and fighting in his territory.... also having both escaping and finding mates elsewhere. And unwanted litters!
If you are serious about your breeding, you will need a large airy pen for your queen. She should have plenty of space to exercise in, shelter, good clean bedding, shelves upon which to jump and survey the world - and toys such as squeaky items, a scratch post, soft toys - anything in reason which takes her fancy. If you happen to own a stud, you will need a very large pen to which is joined a smaller pen with a hatch between the two. The smaller pen is for visiting queens, who can get used to the male before the hatch is raised and they are allowed to meet. Both these pens should also have shelves for the cats to jump on to escape each other. The stud should also have access to water, a litter tray, scratching post, and toys. Both cats should have a good amount of daily care and attention from you - you will find that a small chair inside with you on it for half an hour or so, will do wonders for your pet's happiness.
You will need to make sure that your cat's pedigree certificate is recognized by the governing cat body, and that the vaccination certificate is up to date. No stud owner will allow an unvaccinated queen near his stud - nor should the owner of the queen allow his cat near an unvaccinated stud.
You should investigate and become a member of a reputable cat club which can advise you on cats, kittens, and breeding programs. This club should be a member of the controlling feline council of the state/country in which you live.
Prior to breeding your Queen, you should have done all of the following:-
a. become a member of a reputable cat club;
b. researched your cat's pedigree;
c. researched prospective stud lines;
d. contacted stud owners;
e. checked out the stud's progeny;
f. checked progeny from similar matings;
g. visited as many cat shows as you can;
h. agreed upon a stud fee and housing fee;
i. agreed upon the number of matings;
j. checked transport and costs;
k. consulted with your veterinarian; and -
l. ensured secure housing for your queen.
Only when you have completed this check list are you ready to breed your queen.
A female kitten can come into season from the age of 3 months onwards. On no account should she be mated before she is 1 year old. This is to ensure that her skeletal structure has reached its full potential when she is due to kitten. She also needs a safe and secure place to live - see above. Diet is important to a pregnant queen; you will find that her appetite has increased with her girth and she will be eating up to 6 small meals a day. Don't stint on good food; it should be a well balanced and complete diet. As always - read the information on the food packs when you purchase her food. Never ever leave stale water or food down. The food brings flies, which bring disease - and that's detrimental to your queen's unborn kittens!
You will also find that during this time, she will be more demanding of your attention. This is perfectly natural - it's the temperament of the pregnant mother! Give her lots of Tender Loving Care, and she will reward you with lots of love (plus healthy kittens with sweeter temperaments!).
The stud, should you own him, requires no less care than the queen. However, his diet requirements will not be as changeable as hers... i.e., he won't be wanting six meals a day! It may be that during the mating season he might go off his feed; don't worry unduly about this, as love is a leveller when hunger comes on. After the queen is off season he will settle down again and make up for lost time. However - if he is off food for too long - always check with your veterinarian. I have mentioned his vaccination and pedigree certificates; make sure that his worming regimen is up to date.
When you take your queen home after she's been mated, you should secure her in a safe place again until she is entirely 'off season'. If she happens to escape she will most certainly go looking for other males, and will mate with as many as she can until she is off season. If this occurs, then she will most probably produce a mixed litter - and any kittens which appear to be pure may not be sold as such. Indeed - if the Feline Control Council in your part of the world discovered that you were doing this - then you could be immediately suspended and possibly have your registration revoked.
Whilst your queen is pregnant, special attention should be paid to her health and welfare. She should receive special feeding commensurate with her condition. You will find that quite often, the queen's appetite will have increased, and so will the frequency of feeding. A recommendation is small feeds 3 - 4 times a day, and up to six small feeds if necessary, with plenty of fresh water at hand. The latter is most important; an animal can survive for a while without food, but not without water!
64 to 65 days later, the queen will show signs of unusual behaviour - she will start to shred papers, nest, and will wander from spot to spot... even under sideboards, in cupboards - in fact - anywhere she can get. I have even had one queen who insisted on using an empty suitcase which was situated on top of a wardrobe. Another wanted to have her kittens in bed - with me! (She did - but in her special box, as she got extremely agitated when I put her back on the floor in her box).
You will also find that your queen may go off food on the day or the day before she has her kittens. Don't worry about this - it's just her way of preparing. You may like to let your veterinary surgeon know that your queen is about to kitten, so that he will be available should anything untoward occur. If your vet will be away, ask for a recommendation to a good vet, (usually your vet will have a locum working for him) and advise him similarly.
Your cat will need a good box - a reasonable sized cardboard carton will do - in which to have her kittens. Give her plenty of old newspapers - she will shred these and make herself a nice nest. The box should have high walls which make the cat feel secure. When it becomes obvious that the cat's waters have broken(this looks similar to the cat having urinated) and it is straining (in labour), put the cat into the box and stay with her. She will feel more at ease with you present.
If the first kitten has not presented within about half an hour of the waters having broken - call your vet. It might be a breech (bottom end first) birth, and she could need the vet's assistance. Usually kittens are born at about 20 minute intervals at the most. One queen I had produced five kittens in as many minutes!! As the kittens are born, the queen usually licks the sac off them, chews through the cord, and eats the placenta (also called the afterbirth). That's not obnoxious - it actually helps the queen's milk to come, and cleans up the mess. If the kittens come too fast - you will have to remove the sac, cut the cord, and remove the placenta. Break the sac at the kitten's head. With a rough cloth ( towelling is fine), brush up and down the kitten to help it to breathe. Wipe any mucous from the kitten's nose, and check that the mouth is clear of mucous. With a pair of STERILIZED
scissors, gently cut the cord AFTER the blood has ceased to flow from the placenta (you will note this by observing the cord), about 2 cm from the kitten. There is no need to tie off the cord. Wait for the placenta to be expelled from the queen and remove it.
Now is a good time to check out the kittens. Check to see that they are externally normal, have no abnormalities such as cleft palate (if you're uncertain - take the queen and her kittens to the vet for a check). If there is something wrong with a kitten, quite often the queen will put it aside and ignore it. She will know where we could never understand that this particular kitten's life will be extremely short. This is just the way of nature. A vet can hasten the kitten's death humanely.
After the birth of her kittens, the queen will be exhausted. Offer her some tepid - not hot or cold - water, and leave her for a while to recover. Make sure, before you do, that the area is cleaned up and soiled matter removed. Cats are fastidious - even when tired! You may need to gently wash her nether regions with a cloth and warmed water. Towel dry - and be careful, she most probably will be sore.
For the first week your queen will stay close to her kittens. Don't be offended if she snarls at you, her loved owner, when you attempt to touch her kittens. She will be very protective of them at this time. However, talk to her and stroke and pat her, and she'll soon let you stroke the babies as they suckle or sleep tucked into her. When you do pick one of them up, do so in such a manner that she can closely supervise; if you don't and she loses sight of the kitten - then she will become very agitated and will leap up and try to recover her kitten - or leave the others to follow you. So, hold the kit in front of her face and she'll be less concerned. Gradually, she will come to accept your ministrations and will be quite happy to leave her kittens with you for firstly short, then longer times.
You will notice the queen washing her kittens with her tongue, and she will turn them over and roughly rasp at the abdomen and genitals. This is to ensure that the kittens evacuate both urine and faeces, which she swallows. It's not 'yucky' - it's just a normal way the mother tends to her kittens. This, the wild, helps to remove the smell of infants and so ensures their well being and lives.
Between 4-7 days after their birth, sometimes up to 9 days, you will notice the kittens' eyes begin to open. Please, please - DON'T
force the eyes - you will do irreparable harm. As the eyes open and the kits start taking notice of not only new sounds, but new sights, don't be surprised if a tiny mewing infant spits at you. That's just because it's seen something big and it's afraid - and spitting is a normal reaction. Let it smell your hand, stroke it, use your voice. The kit knows these by now, and will settle down.
From 2 weeks on, the kits will start becoming more adventurous - firstly moving away from Mum in the box (and for the first few times, she will be returning them to a position closer to her). As they grow and become more adventurous, they will begin to need supplements in the form of food from you.
Try giving them a little Farex or other baby cereal mixed with some lactose free animal milk. Many animals are lactose intolerant, so be careful when feeding milk. This can be introduced at 3-4 weeks old, twice first, then three times a day. At four weeks of age, commence small quantities of very
finely chopped or scraped mince of the finest quality - twice a day first then three times a day. Don't skimp on the babies' meals, they need the best to grow. Continue to feed them special milk and cereal, this will help their bones to form properly. As they grow older - 6-8 weeks, they can receive kitten growth food. The formula for this food is contained in the instructions written on the pack. Continue with this food until they are sent to their new homes. It is a very good idea to draw up a list of the kittens' diet and meal times to give to the new owners. Kittens should not be sold under 12 weeks of age. This gives them more time with the mother, who teaches them much that they will need to continue stable and happy lives.
You will need to have the first feline vaccinations given to the kittens prior to sale. The certificate of vaccination showing vaccine given, and date of next vaccine, must be given to the new owner. You should also prior to this time have registered the litter with your feline control council, and by now should have individually registered each kitten. The kitten is sold together with a pedigree certificate showing its lineage. If you do not want the owner to breed with this kitten (it may not be of best quality, and to breed with it would reduce the effectiveness of this bloodline), you should mark the certificate "Not To Be Bred".
After your kittens have 'left home', you will need to ensure that your queen receives attention to help her get over her loss. For some time she may look for her kittens, and patrol the house crying pitifully. Bear with her, give her lots of hugs and special attention. You will find that she'll get over them. Remember, now that she has no kittens, she will soon come into season again. Consult your veterinarian about having an injection for her to prevent an early season. It is not recommended that you breed your cat more than twice a year. I bred my cats once a year only - this ensured their good health and long life.
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